Ethiopia Journal

While I was in Ethiopia, I took many notes of everything I got to do while in Africa. Unfortunately, the list was far too long for me to try to transcribe. But luckily for me, my friend Christen was nice enough to transcribe my notes for me, and even put them in my voice! You can find my journal below after the jump(I've always wanted to say that!).

But even if you don't take the time to read my adventures from Ethiopia, make sure to keep track of Christen's ongoings at her blog: christeninethiopia.blogspot.com.




---------------------------------------

Loyal fans and devoted admirers,

I've arrived safe and sound back in the United States, and, having finally shaken off this horrific jet lag (which, by the way, is even worse when you've traveled home packed inside a cardboard box), I'm ready to update you on my Ethiopian adventures!

My first international trip was a brilliant success. What a whirlwind month! I saw so many crazy things, went to so many beautiful places, met so many great people. Ethiopia is an incredible country, and Christen and the rest of my hosts made sure I got the full experience of it.

The journey began in Knoxville, Tennessee with an epic and overdue reuniting of Clemson friends - what can I say, bringing people together, it's what I do! I was carried through five different airports en route to Ethiopia - Knoxville, Atlanta, Zurich, Cairo, and Addis Ababa - which made for a long but eventful trip. I got to see the Alps as we flew out over them, got to snuggle with Christen for warmth in the over-air-conditioned Cairo airport where we slept for twenty hours on a metal bench....good times! It was sort of a relief to finally land in Addis Ababa, even if it was at 3:00 in the morning.

We blazed through the Ethiopian capital as soon as it got light, making our way to the central bus station. We happened to have arrived on the day of Ethiopian Christmas (December 29th on the Ethiopian calendar, January 7th by our reckoning....I don't know, I gave up trying to keep up with the day), so we headed immediately down to Christen's first Ethiopian hometown, a placed called Welliso (or Welisso or Wolisso or Wallisso or basically any way you wanted to spell it, since the Ethiopian language is written in its own separate alphabet anyway). I was a big hit with Christen's host family, and they treated me to some full-fledged Ethiopian hospitality. I was treated to Momma's FANTASTIC traditional cooking, and I partied at Big Sister's graduation celebration. There was a constant stream of people in and out of the house during the entire holiday week; I'm pretty sure I met the entire town. (People know me; I'm kind of a big deal.)

Once Christen decided we had stalled long enough, we made our way to Debre Markos, where she lives and works. She showed me around town (I think she was showing me off - no shame, Christen, no shame). We met the local characters, checked out all the local hot spots. I watched Christen "work", which I think I've determined is 10% actual work and 90% drinking various hot drinks. Her house is pretty sweet, though I had to get used to the lack of running water and the fairly frequent power outages, and I'm certain the dogs on her compound would have eaten me if ever left alone with me.

After a solid week at her site (nice work), we traveled up north to Gonder, at the foot of the Simien Mountains, for Ethiopian Epiphany, or Timkat. Timkat is the largest Ethiopian religious holiday after Easter, and Timkat in Gonder is one of the largest religious celebrations in the country. On the day before Timkat, I watched a huge parade through the streets. Groups of teenagers ran around chanting and carrying sticks, priests and nuns walked in procession with their gold-fringed velvet parasols, while church musicians beat drums, blew horns, and sang religious songs. There were so many American and European tourists in town for the big event! I sat up on a hotel balcony with Christen's friends to watch the parade, and I met people from the U.S., Canada, the UK, Germany, and the Netherlands.

The next day, Timkat day, we dragged ourselves out of bed (or, rather, out of sleeping bag, as we were crashing on a Peace Corps Volunteer's floor, along with a couple of couch surfers from Maine) at 4:30 AM to walk to the Fasilades Baths, where the Timkat ceremony would take place. We staked out seats on some rickety wooden bleachers, amidst the assembled crowd of Ethiopians, all dressed in their white cultural clothing. The bleachers overlooked the bath, where the castle-like structure in the middle was decked out in colored lights. Through the dark, early morning hours, people chanted and prayed in unison, and the mood was very solemn. (I have to admit, I mostly just slept inside Christen's bag.)

Around 8:00 AM, the priests entered the baths, to drum beats, cheering, and applause. They lined up shoulder-to-shoulder around the bath, wearing brightly colored robes and large metallic crosses around their necks. There was a ceremony that, being in the Amharic language, went mostly over my head, but after lots of singing, drum-beating, and chanting, the priests blessed the water and placed floating candles on it. Then the place went crazy. Young men took it as their cue to run out from the crowds and fling themselves into the water - from trees, from the bleachers, from wherever they could. It was chaos. At one point, one of the lower bleachers audibly cracked, and Christen decided it was time to go. We had to physically push our way through the massive crowd to get down off the bleachers, then literally ram our way through the small doorway to the Baths, where crowds were attempting to push through from both directions. Somehow Christen managed to shield me from the mobs, and we escaped unscathed, alive to tell the tale.

Unscathed, of course, not counting my previous injuries. As you have already heard, the only dark spot on our Gonder vacation was my breaking both legs on a local minibus. Again, I have to thank the dedicated team of Peace Corps surgeons that worked tirelessly to put me back together. Though there were some pieces of me that were never recovered, I am slowly working my way up to full strength, and no amount of damage will keep me away from future adventurings!

On the way back from Gonder, we stopped through Bahir Dar, a large town beside Lake Tana. It was Presidential Inauguration day when we arrived - or, as the local Obama Cafe announcements called it, "The exciting moment moving to white house". We chilled that night on the patio of the Obama Cafe, where the ceremonies were being shown on CNN International broadcast, projected onto a big outdoor screen. I had the privilege of meeting Miss Obama, who had been crowned the night before in the "Miss Obama Beauty Contest and Celebrity Culture Show." I'm still not exactly sure how one becomes Miss Obama...perhaps by showing the most excitement and love for the man. Though from what I saw - the t-shirts, printouts, and even mudflaps bearing Obama's face - that would be stiff competition among Ethiopians, for sure.

Back in Debre Markos, I attended a wedding, visited Christen's local mill project for people living with HIV, drank ridiculous amounts of coffee, played foosball with the boys on the street, and was generally an outstanding ambassador for American Gnomish culture. Real connections were made, my friends. Bridges were built. Before long, though, it was time to head back to the capital and start the journey back home again.

I'll never forget the great times I had in Ethiopia! Thanks again to my spectacular hosts, and to my loyal fans out there, remember to support your Peace Corps volunteers (preferably through the sending of delicious American junk foods to PO Box 141, Debre Markos, Ethiopia)!

Love and peace,
GNOME

PS - To see more about the things I saw and did in Ethiopia, check out Christen's pictures and blog at christeninethiopia.blogspot.com.

Back in Atlanta & Pictures from Ethiopia

I just arrived back home from Ethiopia - boy, am I tired! And a little bit worse for the wear...but that won't slow me down, as I'm hopping on a plane on Wednesday! But as you can see below, I uploaded my photo album from my trip. Next up for me is updating my map with my new pictures and location, and then a much needed rest. Hopefully I'll have more to report on later, but for now...sleep.

Ethiopia

European Adventures!

I just received word from a friend in Germany that I will be going there in early March! I am very excited about this, as my only experience in Europe has been in airports en route to Ethiopia. I've updated my map accordingly, and will be adding pictures once I get home to Atlanta.

I'm hoping that I can get back to Atlanta by the weekend so I have some time to explore around town before I head off to Albuquerque for the better part of a week. After having my injury in Ethiopia, it might be a good thing for a little R&R...

Returning from Ethiopia

I am currently traveling back to Atlanta after a few weeks in Ethiopia. I am bringing pictures back with me, and soon will be able to share the sights and stories from my trip. I'm hoping I can get back soon enough, though, as I will have to immediately turn around and board a plane for New Mexico!

Keep checking in - I should have pictures up sometime in the next week or so.

Injury Update

My doctors in Ethiopia just sent an email home, and instead of me telling the story, I figured this would suffice. I will live to travel another day, but my walking days may be behind me.

GNOME was involved in a minor vehicle accident over the Ethiopian Epiphany holiday. He sustained multiple breaks in both legs. He was rushed to the Peace Corps volunteer clinic in Gonder, where he was placed under the care of four PCVs and two couch surfers from Maine who professed to have passing experience in Gnomish Medicine. They worked tirelessly through the night, armed with Gorilla Glue and their unshakable faith in humanity. Things were touch and go for a while, at times they seemed to be losing GNOME, but it was at these times that Head Doctor Josh threw forth his fiercest lifesaving efforts, crying defiantly, "NOT ON MY WATCH!!!" After several harrowing hours of surgery, I am happy to report that GNOME has been successfully reconstructed and is resting and recovering nicely in Debre Markos under my tender care. I am afraid I must tell you, however, that GNOME's right Achilles and lower calf was never found. The larger medical community told him he'd never walk again...but he's a fighter. He'll prove them all wrong. F--- the man and his rigid medical establishment.

GNOME would also like to take this time to draw attention to vehicle accidents as the "silent killer" of Africa and make note of the fact that Ethiopia has the highest rate of traffic deaths per vehicle in the world. He is happy to be alive and is devoting his life to the promotion of traffic safety and the establishment of sound traffic laws, for the cessation of these needless deaths.

Pictures From Florida

I finally got some time to myself, so I uploaded my pictures from my Christmas/New Year's trip to Florida! They can be found here.

I still have no word yet from the doctors on my status - they've been keeping me waiting, and I'm getting quite anxious to hear the diagnosis! As soon as I find out the news, I will pass it along.

Florida

Dark Times in the Dark Continent

I only have a moment, but I felt the need to report that I have been injured in my journey. My legs were the victim of a tragic bus accident, and I am going into surgery tonight to try to repair them. I don't know any more than that at the moment, so I will share the story of how this happened when I have news on my (hopeful) recovery. Keep me in your thoughts and prayers.

Thanks,
GNOME

Reporting from Ethiopia

We don't have very much time on internet terminals here, but just thought I'd give you all a quick update that I have indeed made it to Ethiopia - my first trip through customs was completely uneventful! After having been scanned at the airport in Syracuse to make sure I was not carrying anything illegal, I thought I would run into tougher times...but so far, so good.

I just celebrated my second Christmas here, as Ethiopia is on a different calendar than the rest of the world. Two Christmases in one year? Yes, please!

Anyway, I must head off - make sure to watch out in the coming days as I'm sure I'll be adding pictures from Florida in the near future. See you soon!

Back from Florida

Well, I got back into Atlanta today and I must say that I had a heck of a trip down in Florida. I got to see so many places, met so many new people, and may have even met some friends who will let me visit them in Sweden! All in all, I really had a great time and cannot wait to post pictures for you to see - I just need to wait for my friends to email them to me.

Tomorrow I'm off to Knoxville to meet Christen, and then it's time to hop on a plane for Ethiopia where I'll be through most of the month. Internet will be scarce out there, but Christen tells me we can check my email from time to time, so feel free to send me a message if you want. See you soon!